Don't hesitate to stay at Rancho de Cuernavaca or at least visit it. Every suite has its own decoration stemming from Europe, India, Mexico, and other parts of the world. Las Mañanitas is very nice at night, either to stay, or to only drink something. It's also a marvellous place to eat.

Casa Colonial. Netzahualcoyotl 37, downtown. This  charming hotel is housed in a beautifully converted 18th-century building near the cathedral. There are 16 individually-decorated rooms, each with a fireplace, antique decorations. Lovely gardens, swimming pool, cable TV, small meeting room. Rates MD. Tel. 312-7033. Fax 310-0395.

Casa Tamayo. Rufino Tamayo 26, in the Acapantzingo  neighborhood. A charming Italian villa-style hotel with just nine guest rooms with terrace and cable TV, a popular open-air restaurant-bar, swimming pool.  Rates FC. Tel. 312-8186. Fax 318-9477.

El Madrigal. Sonora 115, in Colonia Vista Hermosa. Ruben  Cerda, who managed Las Mañanitas for years, has opened this contemporary hacienda hotel offering 36 guest rooms and excellent dining overlooking an  attractive garden with waterfall. Tel. 316-7878. Fax 100-7700.

Hacienda de Cortes. Plaza Kennedy 90, in the Atlacomulco area. A beautifully restored 16th-century hacienda built by Hernan Cortes has  been converted into a picturesque hotel with 25 colorfully decorated suites. Lovely gardens, pool, meeting facilities, and in-door or terrace dining on fine  international cuisine. Rates MD. Tel. 315-8844. Fax 315-0053.

Hacienda San Gabriel de las Palmas.  Cuernavaca-Chilpancingo Hwy., Km. 41.8, in Amacuzac, 20 minutes from Cuernavaca.  This lavish hacienda built in 1529 has served as a Franciscan monastery, sugar plantation and headquarters of Emiliano Zapata. Today it houses 13 guest rooms decorated with period furnishings and original artwork, some with balconies, indoor and outdoor restaurants, swimming pool, tennis court, temazcal steam room, game room, meeting and banquet rooms. Horseback riding, massage services.  Member of Mexico Boutique Hotels. Rates MD. Tel. 348-0636. Fax 348-0113.

Las Villas de Bellavista. Tabachin 133, in the Bellavista neighborhood. This colonial-style property, run by an expatriate from New York, is ideal for longer stays, with eight one- to three-bedroom villas with cable  TV, phone, fully-equipped kitchen, living-dining area, terrace and private  garden, some also with fireplace. Heated swimming pool, bar area. Maid service.  Rates MD. Tel./Fax 317-1893.

Maximiliano y Carlota. Galeana 29, in the Acapantzingo neighborhood. An attractive establishment with extensive gardens and 72 suites with private terraces distributed in "old" (antiguo) or modern sections (opt for  the old, they have more character). There's an excellent restaurant overlooking lovely, sloping grounds, bar with live music weekends. Two heated pools, meeting  facilities for up to 400. Rates MD. Tel. 318-2004. Fax 318-3066.

Mision del Sol. Gral. Diego Diaz Gonzalez 31, about 15  minutes from downtown. An upscale health retreat with 40 rooms and 12 villas surrounded by gardens with fountains; guest quarters have no phones or TVs to  distract. Full-service spa, lovely swimming pool, tennis court, gym. Restaurant  with a vegetarian bent (no red meat). Water recycling and solar power. No  children under 13. Rep. UI. Rates FC. Tel. 321-0999. Fax 320-7981.

Posada Maria Cristina. Juarez 300, on the corner of Abasolo. Built in the mid-16th century by one of Hernan Cortes' men on the site of the orchards and stables of Cortes' palace, this former hacienda features 20 well-appointed suites around 7,000 square meters of gardens. Swimming pool, fine restaurant-bar, small meeting rooms. Meetings, banquets and events coordinator. Rates MD (includes breakfast). Tel. 318-2981. Fax 318-2981.